You also can’t usually run two ropes through these devices. They typically have a mechanism to release the rope once it’s been cinched tight.īecause of the extra features, these devices are typically heavier and cost a bit more. When the device clamps down, the climber’s progress is stopped, preventing him or her from falling. ![]() The assist feature requires minimal use of hand strength, but these types of belay devices still require always keeping a hand on the brake line - they aren’t hands-free!Īssisted-braking belay devices (or self-locking, self-braking, auto-locking, or ABDs) are designed to clamp tight on the rope with a simple camming mechanism if the rope is pulled through the device with enough force. A bit heavier and more expensive than a standard tubular device if not needed for guide mode.Īn assisted-braking device has a mechanism that clamps or squeezes the rope when it is under tension.Can be used to belay from the anchor with the added benefit of automatically blocking.Simple – no moving parts so it’s lightweight and durable.Versatile – can be used in about any situation with both single and double ropes and with two climbers.When to use: Auto-blocking belay devices can be used any place a tubular belay device is used, but are most frequently found in multi-pitch or guided climbing scenarios.Īdvantages of auto-blocking belay devices: (A separate hole in the device can be used to “unlock” the rope, just be sure to read the instructions that come with the device so you know what you’re doing.) The disadvantages are that they’re generally a few grams heavier than their non-auto-blocking counterparts, and it’s possible that the rope will get “locked” into the device if a climber falls. ( You still can’t take your brake hand off the rope though!)Īuto-blocking devices are most beneficial to climbing guides, though anyone needing to belay two climbers separately on multi-pitch routes will find that this is the best type of device. When the device is attached to the anchor (rather than to the belayer’s harness) it can catch the climber automatically, with little manual braking required. These have additional holes that can be used to clip the device directly to an anchor on multi-pitch routes. The ATC-XP is the same concept but with added grooves for more friction.Īuto-blocking belay devices are still technically tubes, but with extra features and benefits. The most common model is the Black Diamond ATC – ATC stands for Air Traffic Controller. The various brands and models provide additional features such as added friction. Read this article if you want to learn how to rappel A BD ATC threaded for belaying There are two slots to accept two ropes – either for rappelling double-stranded or for climbing with twin ropes. The simple design of these belay devices means they’re relatively lightweight and will last a long since they have no moving parts. Tubular belay devices most often have two slots to push a bight of rope through (although some have only one) and a retainer wire to keep the device connected to a locking carabiner on your belay loop or directly to the anchor. Types of Belay Devices Tubular Belay Devices The three we’ll focus on are tube-style, auto-blocking, and assisted braking.īelay devices can also be used to rappel down the wall after you reach the top.īelay devices can also be used to rappel down the wall after you reach the top. ![]() ![]() You can expand your horizons later as you learn more advanced skills. As a beginner, you’ll only need to worry about three of them and will likely only want to start out by using two of them. Modern belay devices come in several flavors. ![]() We won’t go into details about the history of belay devices, but know that we’ve come a long way since wrapping the rope several times around your body to hold the climber securely. Kinks in the rope wrapped around tight angles or locked in a camming device stick and allow you to do less work as a belayer.Ī belay device makes it possible for the belayer to hold the weight of a climber with little more than a few pounds of force a lot of friction. No matter which type of belay device you use, friction is the main force keeping the rope tight. Choosing the right belay device can be confusing with so many options It’s all about friction Adventure School participates in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program for sites to earn advertising fees by advertising and linking to īelay devices are simply mechanical tools that create friction on the rope to stop its progress when a climber falls or wants to be held securely.
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